女性的年龄
为了直观地了解我国时尚男刊中的女性年龄,这里选取《名牌》、《时尚先生》、《名仕》作为研究的样本,之所以选取这三本杂志作为样本是因为它们在我国男性时尚杂志中较有代表性,可以成为研究的重点。以下是这三种时尚男刊从24本杂志中的女性年龄分层,由于其中部分女性的年龄笔者无法得知,所以以下数据统计较为粗糙。下表“其他”一栏包括笔者无法得知的女性年龄和45岁以上年龄的女性。
由表4.1观察发现:《名牌》、《时尚先生》、《名仕》中涉及的女性几乎都是年轻女性,年龄段在18一45岁之间,其中18一35岁之间的女性又占绝大多数,超过35岁的女性寥寥无几,这说明时尚男刊中的女性以年轻女性为主,不包含年龄较大的女性群体。时尚男刊中推崇并赞美年轻貌美的女性,从另一个层面上说是商业化的结果,它以女性的外在美衡量女性,暗示年轻貌美的女性更有魅力,更有欣赏价值,年老色衰的女性无论事业如何成功都不能成为男人欣赏的对象。
女性的职业及经济状况
调查统计我国杂志中的女性职业和经济状况有助于我们研究女性在社会分工中职位的特点、女性对男性在经济上的依赖程度和时尚男刊是否存在男权意识等问题。为了详尽地了解我国时尚男刊中的女性职业和经济状况,这里选取了《名牌》、《时尚先生》、《名仕》各24本杂志做样本,将《名牌》、《时尚先生》、《名仕》三分杂志中涉及的女性职业分为艺术家、明星、政治家、企业家、模特和其他六大类,对我国时尚男刊中的女性职业做了一个粗略的统计
表4.2: 三种时尚男刊中女性职业分类
由上表可以看出,活跃在《名牌》、《时尚先生》、《名仕》中的女性职业往往以明星、模特、艺术家为主,其中模特、明星又占绝大多数,传统的家庭主妇角色以及“成功男人背后任劳任怨的女人”的形象很少出现在男性时尚杂志中。
这些杂志中的职业女性总是伴随成功、美丽、性感、事业有成等字眼出现,肯定女性的成功和贡献,将女性的活动范围延伸到家庭生活以外的范围,多谈及女性的事业,这样的做法在一定程度上体现了男女平等的观念,但是同时对女性的歧视也存在隐蔽性。似乎女性的成功都是依靠美丽的外貌或敢于展示裸露的身体,对于女性的智慧、学识、能力等却少有提及。由此,就将女性利用性感和美貌来获得成功这一现象合理化普遍化,而这与大多数女性还是通过自身的素质和努力获得成功的社会现实不符.
女性图片的呈现
现代媒体的传播中,无论是电视还是杂志、网络都存在很多女性裸露的图片、视频,强调女性的吸引力和性特征。时尚杂志更多的是通过相貌和性特征来界定女性,对女性外貌的强调非常突出,最流行的女性杂志往往最热衷讨论有关女性身体与相貌的话题,并不断提供女性节食和锻炼的信息,男性时尚杂志则通过刊登性感女性的照片并配加解说词的方式讨论相关话题。以下列表选取的是《时尚先生》、《名牌》、《名仕》24本杂志做的样本分析。#p#分页标题#e#
表4.3:三种时尚男刊广告中的男女裸露图片比例
着重描述、刻画身体暴露的女性图片是时尚男性杂志中的一大特点。笔者在对3种不同杂志近两年的观察可以看出,所有的时尚男性杂志都无法避免刊登裸露女性的图片,裸露女性图片比例比裸露男性图片比例高出很多。这些裸露女性图片中,有车模,也有明星,也有特约上镜女性,这些女性暴露的部位往往是镜头的焦点所在,或是妓好的身材,或是柔嫩的肌肤,或是修长的大腿,或是圆滚滚的臀部,还有采用各种摄影表现手法来突出乳沟的,更有甚者,直接裸体上阵,这种做法,着实为时尚男性杂志赢得了不少的眼球,赚得了不少的利润。
时尚男刊中女性形象存在的问题
5.1强调女性对男性的依附性
媒体在形成我们的性别结构和提供女性和男性像什么一一他们的人格特征、社会角色和社会价值的期待方面起着重要的作用。①男性杂志中对女性的描述则更多地倾向于与性相关联,即使是强调女性的成功也在很大一部分内容上强调男性对女性成功的帮助,即女性是从属于男性的,女性的成功要依靠男性的帮助。
首先,在女性与商品之间建立一种隐喻式的关系,体现女性对奢侈品的向往。《时尚先生》有一个专栏是《速度与激情》,这个专栏多是介绍跑车的性能及漂亮炫酷的外观,在刊登跑车图片之余,性感的模特是必不可少的,几乎所有的模特都是三点式,穿着比基尼,甚至丁字裤,摆出各种类似性爱的姿势,似乎跑车就是她们心爱的男人,四五个女性抚摸着跑车,为跑车加工美容,体现出女性对奢侈品的向往和喜爱。男性时尚杂志上的广告通常有汽车、化妆品、手机、手表、砖石珠宝等奢侈品,几乎所有的商品都无一例外地需要女性作为广告模特来突出男性的尊贵与成功。
第二,在时尚男性杂志中,女性在两性关系中居于从属地位,对男性顺从,从而得到男性的宠爱。纵观所有的男性时尚杂志,凡是出现钻石珠宝、奢华女装等女性奢侈用品的广告的时候,女性总是处于从属地位而不是主导地位,广告的画面通常是男性为女性戴上价值连城的钻石项链,男性用欣赏的目光打量穿着奢华晚礼服的女性,而项链、晚礼服是男人送给女人的,这里就体现了男性是主导,女性是从属,女人依赖男人而生活,女人只有依靠男人才能过上无限奢侈的上流生活。
第三,在时尚男性杂志中,女性的生存价值只局限于容貌、年龄、身材上,女性只专注于爱情、享受和时尚的追逐,她们的主要兴趣在化妆品、服装、首饰、减肥上,对于与之无关的所谓的事业、社会现状、历史地理等一概不感兴趣。
2.1男性的角色#p#分页标题#e#
2.1.1成功的“商务人士”
表11、男性的年龄呈现
表中的结果显示:时尚男性的年龄集中在18一45岁之间,占到样本总体的95.2%。其中以26一35岁的最多,占到了样本中将近一半的份额。在所有的样本中,儿童出现的比例很小,只有2.606,但是,在所有的样本中,没有老年人的形象。可见,男性时尚杂志宣扬的是好像只有青年人和中年人才有资格时尚。从结果中我们发现,男性时尚杂志中存在着年龄的歧视现象.
从上表中的数据中,我们看到,职业男性的角色占到将近一半的比例。可见在时尚杂志中男性的角色呈现还是以传统的成功的商务人士为主。娱乐休闲的角色也有39.1%的比例。从中我们可以得到这样的信息,男性不是在职场中炫耀自己事业的成功,就是在休闲娱乐中显示自己身份的尊贵,他们在充分地享受生活。但是在样本中男性的家庭角色的呈现只占有7%的比例,可见男性时尚杂志有忽视和弱化男性的家庭角色的倾向。而男性的社会角色却在不断地重复中得到强化。
表13、男性的服饰呈现
男性不同的角色,也需要由相应的服饰来体现。从表n中我们发现,男性的角色主要是职业角色和休闲娱乐角色,所以他们服饰也体现了相同的特征。职业装和休闲装占到了,75.7%的高比例。运动装多是以时尚的年轻人为主,有14.7%的比例。还有8.3%的另类装,也是年轻人表现出的反传统的穿着。通过服饰的呈现,已经突破了男性形象的模式化,而时尚健康,注重自我意识表达,我们发现男性的角色和反叛不羁的角色在广告样本中已经有了展示和发展的空间。而家居装只有1.3%的比例,和弱化男性的家庭形象相对应。
从表14中,男性形象出现的场合以娱乐休闲场合和职业场所居多,分别有26.6%和14.7%的比例,出现在家庭场合仅占到2.1%,而无地点背景最多,有44.1%之多。样本总体中角色定位依然是男性的职场表现。男性在公共领域的角色得到强化。广告中所展现的男性形象,大多从事着有领导力和竞争力的工作,展现出他们在商海奋战中沉着、冷静、充满智慧、知性淡定的一面。可见事业有成的商务男士是广告中男性形象的首选。
2.2.1.1阳刚之美
广告使用男性形象来推销商品,而男性性感的身体是其中最大的卖点。与展示女性身体的阴柔之美不同的是,男性以体魄强健的阳刚之美取胜,在样本中年轻的男性比较张扬,他们毫不掩饰地展示头部、颈部与身体其他部位的和谐,隐含着男性特有的自豪感与夸耀感。他们炫耀着男性力度的同时,也彰显着男性的性感美、肉体美。这类广告大多无背景,用高超的摄影技术突出了人体的肌肉轮廓。模特宽阔的肩膀有着强大的支撑力,发达的肌肉蕴藏着无#p#分页标题#e#
穷的力量.
第三章男性形象的成因分析
时尚类杂志广告中男性广告形象,和当代的整个社会经济形态,消费观念以及各种
思潮运动有着密不可分的联系,潜在的影响着广告中的男性形象的再现,也使男性形象
有更为鲜明的外在形式、性格特征和男性气质的呈现.
3.3商业因素
社会的不断进步和转型,消费主义的入侵,大众传统的心理期待和认同,男性主义和女性主义运动的不断推进,作为传播媒介本身发生了变革,同时对媒介广告中的男性和女性形象的多元化产生了一定的影响,但是还有一个重要因素我们不能忽视,即商业化的诱导,它是最根本的原因。主流媒介是广告商所控制的,为利益所驱动的。无论是什么媒介,离开广告客户的广告费用,媒介都是无法生存的.
杂志社很清楚,他们对广告主的吸引力就在于它的目标受众定位精确,有稳定的受
众群,高端的品牌形象,为了获得各方面的支持。在设计杂志栏目时,都选择男性感兴
趣的话题,设计时尚男性的生活方式和外貌,对广告商的选择,也是和自身杂志的定位
相匹配,大多也都是一些国际上时尚界的宠儿。同时他们也利用女权主义,设计一些节
目、相关的社会活动,其主题和内容都是带有一些女性主义的倾向,有的甚至于女性主
义的观点不谋而合。
3.4 社会因素
“女性主义者经常将将广告看作是压迫的焦点,认为广告传递的形象通过将女性表现为被男性‘凝视’的被动客体而加以贬低(Stern,1993)。在这里,女性被展现为被动的欲望客体,处于男性的注视之下,男性则积极地参与对所看到的一切尽心评价和操纵。然而,最近,‘女性凝视’(Schroeder&ZwiCk,1999)的概念被引入到广告作品之中,而女性主义者的角色反转技术(Fetterley,1997;Stern,1993)则被用来支持男性被过度渲染成色情的、偶像化的以及脆弱的欲望客体的主张。”
随着社会的进步与变革,社会性别理论的研究呈渐进和多元发展。声势浩荡的女性主义促进了社会对女性身份、地位的认可,同时也影响到男女双方对两性逐渐趋同的社会角色的认识。这些社会文化意识形态等方面的变化影响着广告的表现,时尚类杂志广告中传统的男性形象逐渐被消解,产生了许多女性眼里最想接近的新男性形象。新男性形象的出现是女性社会经济地位的提高和整个社会思想意识的进步的结果。
文化的因素对男性形象的影响很复杂,她使得我们对男性理想形象的内涵不断丰富。其实,男性和女性都将继续同时作为凝视的主体和客体而存在,因为男性和女性一样,即受到了女性主义的影响,也受到了男性主义的影响#p#分页标题#e#
4.4.1 the woman's age
In order to intuitively understand China's fashion of women in the publication of the male age, here the famous brand ", select the fashion sir ", "famous" as research samples, are working on this three magazine as the samples because they are men in China fashion magazine more in the representative, can become the focus of research. The following are the three men from 24 publication of the fashion magazine of women in the age layered, because some of the women's age the author can't know that, so the following data statistics relatively coarse. Under "other" table column includes the author not know women age and over 45 years of age women.
From the table 4.1 observed that the famous brand ", "fashion sir", "famous" of the women involved in almost all is young women, ages 18 a 45 years in between, including 18 a 35 of women and in a majority, more than 35 years old of very few women, show that the publication of the women of fashion male with young women to give priority to, do not contain the older group of women. Fashion publication of highly praise in male and the beautiful young women, from another level, the commercialization of the results, it with the female beauty measure women, suggests that the beautiful young women more attractive and more appreciation value, aged color declines of women no matter how career success would be men enjoy objects.
4.1.2 female occupation and economic conditions
Investigation and statistics from the journal in China female career and economic conditions will help us women in social division of labor in the study of the characteristics of women, position of men in economic dependence and fashion male issue whether there are male consciousness, etc. In order to understand the details of the publication of the women fashion male professional and economic conditions, select the "famous brand" here, "Mr. Fashion", "famous" every 24 magazine do sample, will the famous brand ", "fashion sir", "famous" three points involved in the magazine female career into artists, stars, politicians, entrepreneurs, models and six other big kinds of our country, the publication of the women fashion male professional done a rough statistics
Table 4.2: three women in the publication of the fashion male classifications
From the above can see, active in the famous brand ", "fashion sir", "famous" in the female profession often by star, models, artists give priority to, including models, and the majority of stars, the traditional housewives role and "successful man of the burden of hard work behind the woman" image rarely occur in men in the fashion magazine.
These magazines of professional women always go with success, beautiful, sexy, a successful career words appear, sure women success and contribution, the female's scope extended to family life outside of the range, and more about women's career, so the approach to a certain extent reflects the concept of equality between men and women, but also to the female's discrimination are also concealment. The success of the women seem to depend on the beautiful appearance or dare to show naked body, for women's wisdom, knowledge and ability is seldom mentioned. Thus, will use sexy and beautiful women to succeed this phenomenon, a generalized rationalization, and this and most women or through their own quality and to succeed social facts. #p#分页标题#e#
4.2 women pictures appear
The spread of modern media, whether it is television or magazines, network has many women naked pictures, video, emphasize the female's appeal and sexual characteristics. Fashion magazines more is through the appearance and features to define women, to women that appearance is very outstanding, the most popular women's magazines are often the most keen to discuss the female body and appearance of the topic, and continuously provide women diet and exercise information, fashion magazine published by men are sexy pictures of women with addition of commentary and discuss topics related to the way. The following list of selection is the fashion sir ", "famous brand", "famous" 24 magazine do sample analysis.
Table 4.3: three fashion male issue advertising of men and women and exposed picture proportions
Focusing on the body is exposed and depicting female images in the men's magazine fashion is a great characteristic. The author is in three different magazines for nearly two years of observation can see, all the fashion magazines can't avoid men published pictures of naked women, bare naked men than women pictures proportion picture a much higher proportion. These pictures of naked women, models, also have a star, also have special mirror on women, these women exposed areas often is the focal place of the lens, or prostitution better figure, or tender skin, or long legs, or round hips, and used various photography expression to highlight the cleavage, what is more, direct naked to battle, this kind of practice, really for fashionable men's magazine won many eye, and earned a lot of profit.
5 fashion publication of the female image in male existing problems
5.1 women to emphasize the dependent men
The media in the formation of gender structure and provide our men and women like what they personality, one social role and social value of the expectation of play an important role. (1) in the men's magazine on the description of the women are more tend to be associated with sex, even if is to emphasize that the success of the women and in a part of content that the success of men women help, namely the men from belongs to women, women's success will depend on men for help.
First of all, in women and between commodity set up a kind of metaphor relationship, reflect the luxury of women yearn for. "Mr. Fashion" have a column is the speed and passion ", this column is introduced the performance of the sports car and beautiful appearance of dazzle cruel, published more than the pictures in sports car, sexy model is indispensable, almost all of the models are SanDianShi, dressed in a bikini, even t-shaped pants, put out all sorts of similar sex posture, it seems the man is that they love sports car, four or five women stroked the sports car, for sports car processing beauty, manifests the women to luxury yearning and loved. Men in fashion magazines are automobiles, advertising is often cosmetics, mobile phones, watches, jewelry and so on brick of luxury, almost all the commodities without exception, need to women as advertising model to highlight the honour of men with success. #p#分页标题#e#
Second, in the fashion of the men's magazine, women in relationships in subordinate position, to the male obedient, and thus get men's favor. Throughout all of the men fashion magazines, always appear a diamond jewelry, costly eu women luxuries advertising, women have always been subordinate status and not the leading position, and advertising picture usually male for women wear the priceless diamond necklace, men with appreciation in the eyes of the women looked costly evening dress, and necklace, evening dress is a man can give to a woman, reflected here is the leading men and women are affiliate, women rely on men and life, a woman can only rely on men will have a infinite upper-class life of luxury.
Third, in the fashion of the men's magazine, women's survival value limited for looks, age, height, women focus on love, enjoy, and of fashion, their main interest in cosmetics, clothing, jewelry, reduce weight, and not for the so-called business, social status, historical geography are not interested.
2.1 the role of males
2.1.1 successful "business people"
Table 11, the age of the men present
The table of results show that: the age of the stylish men focused on 18 a 45 years old between, account for 95.2% of the total sample. Among them with 26 a 35 year old most, accounted for nearly half of all share in the sample. Of all the samples, the proportion of children appear small, only 2.606, but, of all the samples, not the old people's image. Visible, male fashion magazines for young and middle-aged people like only qualified fashion. From the results we found that men are in the fashion magazine of age discrimination.
The data in the above table, we see, the role of the career men accounted for nearly half of the scale. Visible at the fashion magazine the role of males in the success of the traditional or in the present business people who give priority to. The role of leisure, entertainment and a 39.1% proportion. From it we can get access to this information, the male is not found in the workplace to show off their business success, is in the entertainment show in the honour of my identity, they in fully enjoy life. But in the sample of the male in the present family role a mere 7% of the proportion, visible male fashion magazines have ignored and weakening of the role of the family men tendency. And the men of the social role is repeated in the strengthened.
Watch the male's dress 13, present
Male different roles, also need of the corresponding costumes to reflect. From table n we found that men's role as professional roles and leisure entertainment role, so they dress the same also shows the characteristics. Work and recreational outfit is occupied, 75.7% of the high proportion. The young man on the flight fashion is given priority to, the proportion of 14.7%. And 8.3% of the alternative outfit, also show the young people against the traditional dress. Through the dress of the present, has exceeded male figures modeled, and fashionable health, pay attention to self consciousness expression, we found that men's roles and rebel unruly role in advertising samples have display and development space. And with only 1.3% of the proportion of the household, and weakening of the male family image corresponds. #p#分页标题#e#
From a table in the 14 men appear to the occasion image entertainment and leisure places and professional place is in the majority, with 26.6% and 14.7% proportion, appeared in the family occasions only account for 2.1%, and no place most background, with 44.1%. Sample in overall role positioning is still the male workplace performance. Men in the public domain role strengthened. AD shows male figures, mostly engaged in leadership and competitive work, show they fight in the business of cool, calm and full of wisdom, intellectual calm side. Visible, a successful career in advertising business man is the first choice of male image.
2.2.1.1 muscular beauty
Advertising use the male image to sell the goods, while men sexy body is one of the biggest selling point. And display of the female body beauty of femininity different is, men with strong muscular beauty, to win in the samples of the young men more make public, they conceal the display of the head, neck and other parts of the body, the harmony between male special implicit sense of pride and boast. They show off with the strength of the men at the same time, also reveal the male sexy beauty, physical beauty. These kinds of advertisements are no background, with excellent photography technology highlighted the muscles of the human body outline. Model broad shoulders with strong support, developed muscles contain no
The power of the poor.
In the third chapter male figures the cause analysis
Fashion magazines in advertising men advertising image, and contemporary the whole society economic form, consumption idea and various
Trend closely related to the development of sports contact, the potential impact of advertising men representation of the image, also make the male image
A more distinct external form, character and male temperament appear.
3.3 commercial factors
The development of society and economy, consumerism invasion, the mass of the traditional psychological expect and identity, sexism and the development of the feminist movement, as the media itself happened to change, and to the media advertisement the male and female image of the diversified has certain influence, but still has an important factors we can't ignore, namely the commercialization of the induction, it is the fundamental reason why. The mainstream media is controlled by advertisers, driven by the interests. No matter what the media, leave the advertiser's advertising costs, the media are to survive.
Magazine very clear, they appeal to advertisers lies in its target audience accurate location, has the stable from you
The group, high-end brand image, in order to obtain the support. In the design magazine columns, choose the men are to be popular
Interesting topic, fashionable in design male way of life and appearance, to advertisers choice, is also the positioning and their own magazines
Match, most are also some international fashion's pet. At the same time they also use of feminism, design some day #p#分页标题#e#
Mesh, relevant social activities, its theme and with some of the content is the tendency of feminism, some even women the Lord
Righteous view completely.
3.4 social factors
"Women activists often will advertising as is the focus of oppression, think advertisements transmission through performance for image will be women, by men '" passive at an object to belittle (Stern, 1993). Here, women to be shown for passive desire, the man in the gaze of the object under, men are actively participate in the see of everything evaluation and manipulate with. Recently, however,' female gaze '(Schroeder&ZwiCk, 1999) concept is introduced to the advertising works in, and the role of feminists inversion technology (Fetterley, 1997; Stern, 1993) is used to support the male is too ingrained as pornographic, idolizing and fragile object of desire of the claim."
Along with the progress of the society and the change, the research of the theory of social gender is gradually and diversified development. Momentum of feminism dances promote the social status of women identity, recognition, but also affect men and women both parties in both the social role of converging understanding. These social cultural ideology, and other aspects of the changes affect the performance of the advertising, fashion magazines in advertising traditional male image was gradually eliminate, produced many women's eyes want to close new male image. New male image is the emergence of the social economic status of women and improve the whole society thought consciousness of the result of progress.
Cultural factors to the influence of male image is very complicated, she makes us to the image of the ideal male is unceasingly rich connotation. In fact, both men and women will continue to gaze at the same time as the main body and object exists, because men and women, which was the influence of feminism, was also the influence of sexism
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